Canongate Kirk

Royal Parish with a Common Touch

Gracing the lower Royal Mile with its distinctive Dutch-style façade, Canongate Kirk stands as an elegant reminder that Edinburgh’s grandeur isn’t limited to its castle and palace. Built in 1688 by James Smith, this understated yet refined church continues its role as both parish kirk and royal place of worship when the monarch is in residence at neighbouring Holyroodhouse.

The kirk’s kirkyard proves as fascinating as the church itself. Here lies Adam Smith, the father of modern economics, whose ‘invisible hand’ theory shaped global commerce. Alongside him rest Edinburgh’s notable citizens: poets and politicians, merchants and mortals, their stories etched in weathered stone. Look for the peculiar mortsafe, an iron cage designed to thwart the body-snatchers who once plagued Edinburgh’s graveyards.

Above the entrance, a curious weather vane takes the form of a stag’s head with a cross between its antlers—a reference to the legend of St Giles and his divine encounter. Inside, the kirk maintains its Presbyterian simplicity while housing the royal pew, used by the monarch during Scottish visits. This blend of royal connection and community service was highlighted when Zara Phillips chose it for her marriage to Mike Tindall.

Today’s kirk perfectly embodies its dual role: a working parish church serving its local community while maintaining its historic royal connections with understated Scottish dignity.